Diary/Photo Journal
Week of December 12 - December 18, 2010
Fernando De Noronha
, a World Heritage Site, is a
very special place indeed. Still rustic enough to not feel like a tourist
haven and then touristy enough to have some features in place to make the stay
more enjoyable (cut and stepped trails, maps, a main road through the island,
small food places dotting the island, etc.). Of the 26 islands that make
up this archipelago, only the one is inhabited and being a volcanic island, its
highest point is about 1,000 feet (321 meters) above sea level. As a side
note, the actual island is about 13,000 feet (4300 meters) below the surface. Like Hawaii (and ice bergs), most of this archipelago's mass is
under water.
Our Sunday on the island found us worshipping the
beauty of the nature of the island. We walked along cliffs that gazed down
upon shades of startling blue waters and golden sand beaches,
punctuated by black lava rock tide pools and outcroppings.
After our mild exertion, we jumped over
to another beach and bay, Baia do Sueste. We had stopped in this bay the
day before, and as we were told that we could only snorkel with a guide,
we went elsewhere. Well, as luck would have it, later that day we met one
of the very nice island guides and he said that we did not have to have a
snorkel guide, but rather, if we did snorkel in this amazing bay, we would have
to use a flotation device. The (very wise) reason for the flotation device
(ski jacket/life vest) was so that the more inexperienced swimmers or those that
get tired, do not take it upon themselves to rest by standing on the reefs and
rocks. Good idea.
With this knowledge, we went back to
the Baia do Sueste and rented the floatation device and snorkeled to our hearts
content. Within an hour, we witnessed a plethora of underwater inhabitants
and yes, I did swim on top of and next to a six foot long (two meters) lemon
shark. This mellow shark likes to hang out in the shallow waters and feel
the sun on its back.
Add to that the numerous fish and the
special highlight, several marine turtles. On this snorkel run, I swam
with a Green turtle and a Hawksbill turtle (tartaruga). These gentle
creatures allowed me to swim close enough to touch (which I could not resist)
and found their shells to be smooth and slick.
On Fernando de Noronha, there is a tremendous
conservation effort to protect and increase the turtle species. The TAMAR
Project (Projecto TAMAR) monitors 620 miles (1,000 km) of beaches and with 20
stations, has located itself in eight Brazilian states to protect the marine
turtles. An interesting tidbit is that out of seven of the sea turtles on
earth, five of the species are found in Brasil.
Due to rampant killing, consumption of eggs, illegal
fishing and abuse of the beaches, the marine turtle population rapidly declined
and the result was the placement of these beautiful creatures on the endangered list. The TAMAR
Project on Fernando De Noronha has existed since 1984 and has become a safe
haven for the reproduction of the Green Turtle (Chelonia Mydas or Tartaruga de
Verde) and the preferred feeding area of the most threatened by extinction
marine turtle, the Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata) (and I got to swim
with one!!!).
As if the morning snorkeling was not
enough, we headed to a popular surfing spot (Praia da Cacimba do Padre) and made
our way over and around the jutted point (near the Ilhas Dois Irmaos - "Er-mowns"
or "two brothers") to Baia dos Porcos (Bay of Pigs, and yes, named for the Bay
of Pigs in Cuba).
Gerson had seen fantastic pictures of
this bay and for snorkeling, seemed to be simply perfect; however, the pictures
were taken in the earlier part of the year when the waves are almost
non-existent. As there is a season for surfing and we were smack dab in
the middle of that season, the Bay of Pigs was really a Bay of relentless waves.
Nonetheless, it was beautiful in and of itself and we made the best of the
afternoon dancing around the small lemon sharks playing along the shore and
walking around and climbing upon some of the rock formation.
We had a fantastic typical (late) lunch
there near the beach and after our very exciting day of snorkeling with sharks
and turtles and looking into reflective pools formed over thousands of years, we
refreshed ourselves at the pousada. Once recovered, we found ourselves at
a popular bar on Praia da Conceicao (Conception) to watch the sunset.
The next day, we were back in the water
and hovering over a wreck of a ship that sunk in the Baia de Santo Antonio which
is the home of the Porto de Santo Antonio. The water was incredibly clear
and the fish seemed to look at us as much as we were looking at them.
After viewing a bit of history under
water, we decided to view a bit of history on land. Gerson found us a fort
to climb around and the views from its walls was spectacular. No wonder
this area was used as a military post for several centuries.
 
  |
Recent excavations
are exposing
several buildings
and wellsForte dos Remedios |
 
  |
Where's Flavia?
Gerson having fun in the
stockade room
Gerson walking the walls
where many have walked
before
View to Porto Baia de
Santo Antonio |
We spent a bit of time wandering around
the Forte dos Remedios as it was quite a complex. It was built around 1738
and had been used as a penitentiary along with its military purposes.
We enjoyed a simple lunch at the
pousada and we were again off to another beach. This time, we visited
Praia do Sancho, a beautiful beach we had seen from the cliffs during our walk
around the Mirante dos Golfinhos. A stunning beach made even more
memorable by its access "challenge"
First, we entered the bowels of the
rock cliff by easing down a very steep ladder. Second, we shimmied along a
very narrow passage only to encounter yet another steep ladder that we had to
"suck it all in" to slip downward. Third, as we could see daylight, we had
to watch our heads and shoulders and make our way to the exposed underside of
the cliff. This led to the fourth part of the access trek, that of a very
steep staircase to the beach. Quite the entrance!
We spent a little lazy time and again
saw a young shark cruising the shoreline. We chased a few crabs (and they
are fast, fast, fast) and watched the nosy lizards wander around and into our
bags. Just a pleasant afternoon at the beach.
We seemed to have the beach to
ourselves and probably would have stayed longer if not for the want to have a
nice dinner at a recommended restaurant near the port.
  |
Helio playing with a friend
*no crabs were injured
or eaten (unfortunately!) |
 
  |
The staircase up
View to Baia do Sancho and
Flavia and Helio on the beach
A local
Hidden among the tree shoots |
We had a terrific dinner at a hilltop
restaurant that overlooked the Baia de Santo Antonio. We actually
ran into a friend of Flavia's family (as he is part owner of the tour agency and
part owner of the top pousada) and had a moment to talk and convince us to
create the opportunity to scuba dive.
Not to be defeated, we attempted to
revisit Baia dos Porcos earlier in the next morning in hopes that the waters would be
calmer. Quite the opposite was the case so we turned around and headed
back around the point and enjoyed the beach for a short while. At least we
were able to take advantage of some rock scrambling and some terrific views.
We cut short our stay at the beach and
went back to a small restaurant nearby the pousada for a good lunch. As we
were all scheduled to scuba dive that afternoon, we wanted to make sure we had
the energy reserved.
 
  |
Diving down the underwater canyons
Lots of fish 100' (30 meters) down
Look closely, a very large sting ray
Gerson celebrating a 100' deep
canyon shelf |
 
  |
A turtle joined us
Fish everywhere
Gerson going back
to
school A photo moment |
We are not exactly sure where we dove
around the island as things were a bit hurried. We do know that our first
dive was about 100+' (30+ meters) and the second dive quite a bit shallower
around 45' (15 meters).
Flavia and Helio, not being scuba
certified, took what is called a "baptism" and had one dive at another part of
the island. As their day was part instruction and part dive, they were
signed up through a different boat. From what we heard that evening, they
had a fantastic dive and took to the water, well, like fish.
 
 
  |
Nurse shark
Louise loved the shelves
A strange looking fish
Barra, Barracuda!
Yes, that is a green Morey Eel
about 6' (2 meters) long and yes,
we were able to swim alongside
of it for quite a distance (very cool!) |
 
 
|
Gerson coming up
through one of the
many holes in the shelfUmmm, dinner!
Flavia and Helio
getting ready
Fantastic picture of
Flavia and Helio taken
by their dive photographer |
We had hoped to see a famous
inhabitant, the Spinning Dolphins, but alas, it was not to be. Gerson
caught a glimpse of a few of them as the boat was moving along, but they soon
submerged when I came out of the cabin to look. These dolphins are famous
for their leaping out of the water and fervently spinning in the air before
disappearing back into the blue waters. Baia dos Golfinhos is one of the
few breeding areas left for these wonderful mammals.
Not much you can do after diving that
can top that experience and we found no exception to that rule (at least for
that day).
On the following day, Wednesday, Gerson
found the remnants of one of the other forts and we just stopped long enough to
take a few 'postcard' pictures. Then, it was off to one of our favorite
spots, Baia do Sueste and to swim with the turtles and sharks once again.
We spent a couple of hours at the beach
(most of which, I spent in the water) and I probably would have stayed there if
my stomach did not remind me that I needed to eat. What is so remarkable
about this bay, is that the reef is only a few feet under water and you see all
the critters within a depth of 10' (3 meters).
From there, we went up to the Pousada
Ze Maria, the high-end pousada I mentioned earlier. As we were invited to
indulge in their swimming pool, Gerson wanted to take advantage of the "high"
life for a bit. As with the Baia do Sueste, we were joined by a couple,
Lucas and Tatiana (also from Curitiba), that we met in our humble pousada and we
enjoyed sipping a few drinks in a shimmering pool of water overlooking the trees
and beach
below.
On Wednesdays and Fridays, Pousada Ze
Maria (its namesake, Jose (Schzo-say) Maria hosts what is termed as a
"gastronomical event" of all you can eat seafood and desserts. Even though
the price was exorbitant, it was something to be experienced and enjoyed at least
one in a lifetime.
Jose himself introduced the fare as
though it was the unveiling of a piece of art, and in a culinary way, it was.
Even though the taste of the food was a little "average" and a tad
disappointing, we still were swept up in the entire evening of a variety of
food, pleasurable company and energetic dancing that capped off the night.
We could not stay too late at the
'event' as we had an appointment for a little excursion the next morning.
We were flying off the island later that afternoon so it only made sense to slip
in one last snorkeling expedition before we said good-bye.
Praia de Atalaia is part of the Marine
Reserve of the island and is only accessible with a guide along a 30-minute
trail walk. The beach is famous for its large (shallow) pool that has
formed because of the reef that walls it in and away from the ocean. Only
with the highest tide does the water exchange and therefore, an abundance of sea
life has nestled itself within the pool and its calmer, protected waters.
 
 
  |
Our guided walk to Praia de Atalaia
Very beautiful landscape
This area used to be home to an
American salt-works plant
A white heron looking for lunch
View to the Atalaia beach and its
famous pool |
 
 
  |
The protective reef
Gerson poking around
Large schools of small
fish
Typical reef fish
Unconcerned fish
Cool picture alert! Very
rare to find Seasnakes! |
We made the mad scramble to get back to
the pousada, shower and have lunch, all before heading to the airport. We
were sad to leave Fernando de Noronha; however, we definitely saw just about
every bit we could in the short time we visited.
We said our goodbyes to Fernando de
Noronha and via Recife, we flew uneventfully back to Curitiba. Arriving
late at night, we had just enough energy to drop our luggage and find our beds.
When we arose the next day, we had a
little turtle protection job to do ourselves. For many years, Marjorie and
Carlos have nurtured a turtle in a tank on their balcony. As the turtle
has been growing and its tank has not, Gerson finally convinced them to let us
release the turtle into a larger, and freer, environment.
Gerson knew of this small park (and has
taken me to visit before) that has a wonderful little lagoon with several
playmates for the turtle. Placing the turtle in a shoebox and concealing
the box in a back pack, Gerson, Marjorie and myself stealthily walked into the park
(as we were not sure of the legality of our actions) and gave the turtle its freedom. With a little nudge, the turtle went into
the water and was strolling along the bank of the shore in no time.
Other than doing a lot of laundry and
getting ourselves re-situated in Marjorie's home, we did not do much more than
spend the rest of the day at home.
However, as the next day was Saturday,
we had plans to drop into a bar-b-que that was being hosted by Julio, the father
of a good friend of ours that lives near us in Huntington Beach.
We have visited Julio and his wife
Vilma and their pictures and our visits are immersed within our travel pages.
Julio is the owner of a growing business that designs and manufactures large
welding (metal) projects (such as street light poles, street signs, etc.) and he
was having a Christmas bar-b-que party for his employees.
Surprising Julio, as he did not know we
were coming, was a lot of fun and as we knew many of the employees and other
friends that showed up (Paulo, Bela's father and another Huntington Beach friend
and Dinarte, Marco's father and yet another California friend - and they will
show up on future pages), we had a terrific time. As this was truly a
"man" event (I was the only female), the fare was meat, beer and lots of raucous
laughter.
 
  |
The racks of ribs and to
get the true feel of the
size of these slabs, check
out Marco cutting off a
test chunkGerson eyeing the
food
Employees enjoying |
 
 |
Marco and Julio's son,
Mauricio serving the
meatDinarte, Marco, Julio with Paulo and
Gerson in the
background
Paulo, Gerson, Marco, Dinarte, and Julio (Paulo,
Dinarte and Julio are first cousins) |
The bar-b-que went all day and
basically ended only when no one could eat anymore. Julio has his business
on a very large piece of property wherein he converted the back half to a bar-b-que
pit, a large building that houses a pool table and a small soccer field, all for
his employees' use. A very nice boss indeed!
Next up: more food as the
holidays are upon us!
Home Page
Brasil IV Diary Index
Brasil IV page 1
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, a World Heritage Site, is a
very special place indeed. Still rustic enough to not feel like a tourist
haven and then touristy enough to have some features in place to make the stay
more enjoyable (cut and stepped trails, maps, a main road through the island,
small food places dotting the island, etc.). Of the 26 islands that make
up this archipelago, only the one is inhabited and being a volcanic island, its
highest point is about 1,000 feet (321 meters) above sea level. As a side
note, the actual island is about 13,000 feet (4300 meters) below the surface. Like Hawaii (and ice bergs), most of this archipelago's mass is
under water.
